Ajax Diner — Oxford, Mississippi

ajaxLots of people ask you lots of questions when you vacation to Mississippi. Why are you there? Are you having fun? Where are you from that makes you want to vacation in Mississippi? Did you get lost? Seriously, why are you there?

Dudefriend and I made our way to Water Valley (Read more about the small town in this Garden and Gun story), Oxford and Clarksdale about a month ago for a three-day getaway and no, we weren’t lost. We went for the music (Clarksdale is the birthplace of the blues) and to be off-the-grid (really, you’re off the grid. I didn’t have cell service half of the time). But we mostly went for the food.

Oh man, y’all. The food.

From tamales to soul food to barbecue, Mississippi’s got you covered. That was pretty evident on the first day, when we stopped at Ajax Diner on the Square in Oxford.

Ajax is pretty much an institution in Oxford and from what I had read, we should expect a crowd. We got tremendously lucky, though, because we arrived around noon on a Wednesday before classes began, so the town was pretty empty. However, the diner was still busy and we squeezed into the last booth available. (Added bonus: There was a print above our booth that said “Prince loves Ajax” and I’m a sucker for anything relating to Prince.)

Full disclosure: No matter the day, I love to start vacation with a cocktail or beer (or two). But ordering a cocktail at noon on a Wednesday at most places will get you a judging glare. Not at Ajax. After sitting down, the server came over immediately and took our bloody mary order and didn’t even flinch. Five minutes later our super well-made bloody mary came out from the full bar. Yes, a diner with a full bar. I was sold before the food even came out a few minutes later.

And, again, oh, man. The food.

I ordered fried catfish, squash casserole and mac and cheese – a very orange/yellowish plate, but whatever. I was on vacation. You don’t eat greens when you’re on vacation.

The catfish was pretty stellar – it was fried perfectly with a great crunch and lots of spices. And the squash casserole was bangin’, too – lots of butter and cheese. The entire point of squash casserole is getting a semi-healthy food – squash – and turning it into an artery-blocking side, and it definitely succeeded.

But that mac and cheese. Y’all, that mac and cheese.

(Just a reminder of how delicious it looks:)


Actually, it should probably be renamed cheese and macaroni, because the noodles were swimming in some seriously legit Cheddar. It was absolute gooey goodness. To top it off, they sprinkled lots of pepper in it, giving it a killer spicy aftertaste. Even though they gave a solid portion and I had plenty more food to eat, I wanted more. I wanted lots more.

“How do people sing the blues in this state when this exists?” I asked Dudefriend.

I then “made” him take a bite, and his eyes went all wide. “You’re going to say this is the best, right? Because this is definitely the best mac I’ve had.”

Is it the best mac I’ve had? No, but I’ve eaten a lot of mac in my 29 years. Is it in the top five? Oh yeah. It’s so good it almost makes me want to say “Hotty Toddy.” Almost.

Should you try this mac and cheese? Yes

Rating: 9 out of 10

More info here


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Haley Laurence

I'm an Alabamian on a mission to find the best of the best of the South's favorite vegetable: mac and cheese. From meat and threes to chains to fine dining, I'm going to try all the carbs my arteries will allow. Besides mac and cheese, I love the South, small towns, good food, traveling, music, college football and and my adorable feline, Cat Benatar. Got a suggestion? Email me at trailofcheese[at]gmail.com

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